Our 12 Step DIY Coastal Staircase Remodel

Tired of looking at the ugly and stained carpet on our stairs, my husband and I decided to take matters into our own hands and do a complete DIY remodel on our stairs. Here I walk you through the process of our DIY coastal stairs makeover.

I have to start by saying that we are not professionals. We watched a couple of YouTube videos, and then still not 100% on what to do, we knew the only way forward was just to start. So the next day after binging YouTube videos, I had Thomas pull up the carpet and start buying supplies.

Step 1: Removing the carpet, padding, nails, staples

Tired of looking at the ugly and stained carpet on our stairs, Thomas and I decided to take matters into our own hands and do a complete DIY remodel on our stairs. Here I walk you through the process of our DIY coastal stairs makeover.

I have to start by saying that we are not professionals. We watched a couple of YouTube videos, and then still not 100% on what to do, we knew the only way forward was just to start. So the next day after binging YouTube videos, I had Thomas pull up the carpet and start buying supplies.

Materials we used:

• box cutter
• small crowbar
• hammer
• staple remover
• box cutter
• pliers

Process:

1. We cut the carpet along the edges.
2. Then we began to separate the carpet from the stairs using the crowbar.
3. We used our hands and pliers to remove the staples & tacks as needed to get all carpeting loose.
4. We remove all carpet and padding and discarded.
5. We removed all remaining staples and tacks from the wood.

Step 2: Sanding & Cleaning the wood

During this process, we taped off the entrance to the rooms at the bottom of the stairs with painter's plastic and tape. To keep the wood dust in the working area and not spread it throughout the house, we also used a portable tower fan at the bottom and top of the stairs to create a sort of wind tunnel. Each morning of this process we brought everything we needed for the day downstairs and did not use the stairs for the morning and afternoon.

Once we removed the carpeting, we realized there was so much paint on the stairs. Honestly, this was the most tedious part of the process. We used:

• Goof Off
• Paint Scrapers
• Orbital Sander
• Sheet Sander
• Corner Cat Sander
• Sanding blocks

Process:

We started by using the Goof Off to wipe up as much paint as possible with cloths, and paint scrapers because we did not want to take down too much wood to start with. Once we had used as much elbow grease as possible we started sanding with rough grit sandpaper, removing the remaining paint, and making the wood even. To get under the tread and in the corners, we used the corner cat sander. Once the paint was removed, we used finishing grit sandpaper to smooth and even the stairs on each tread and riser.

Once that process was finished, we vacuumed and swept each stair and riser. We then used a mild cleaning spray (Ever Spring All-Purpose Cleaning Spray from Target), and a cotton cloth to wipe down each stair, and then we allowed them to dry overnight.

Step 3: Removing the old trim

I decided I hated the trim, at that point we had put in so much work, I figured we might as well make them exactly what we wanted & remove the trim, so we started that process.

Materials we used:

• box cutter
• crowbar
• screwdriver
• pliers

Procedure:

1. First we cut the bead.
2. We used the crowbar and screwdriver to wedge and pry off the old trim.
3. If nails broke or were left in the wood, we used pliers to remove them.

Step 4: Adding the new trim pieces

Materials:

• measuring tape
• sawhorse
• circular saw
• nail gun and compressor

Procedure:

1. We measured the length of the steps.
2. We then cut the trim piece to length, we needed two pieces of trim.
3. Next, one person held the trim in place, the other used the nail gun to attach to the trim to studs in the wall.
4. At the point where the two pieces of trim met, we used wood putty to connect and smooth out the joint.

Step 5: The staining process

I used several different stains, and chalk paint

• Varathane weathered gray stain
• Rustoleum American Walnut Stain
• Rustoleum Linen white chalk paint
• Varathane hazelnut stain

I applied the stains and chalk paint in the above order. I stained each layer and allowed the stain to dry for an hour. I applied each stain with a cotton rag. I purchased a “bag of rags” from Home Depot, which look like cut-up white t-shirts (actual old t-shirts would also work for this application). These stains can be applied with a stain brush, however, using a cloth is the method I prefer. It allows me to move quickly and cover each surface area easily. After each stain application, I would wipe with a dry clean cloth.

I used the chalk paint to give the wood the “beached” or weathered look. I applied very light brush strokes over the existing layers of stain and allowed them to dry for 30 minutes. then I went over the entire surface area with the last stain (Varathane Hazelnut Stain).

My favorite brush to use for chalk paint is a cheap brush I purchased from Family Dollar. I have purchased more expensive brushes however, after many chalk paint projects, this is the one I prefer.

Picture from familydollar.com

Because my entire family was still in the house during this process, we broke each step up into parts. We allowed the mornings to be dedicated to the stairs, and then once whatever process was complete or dry, our family could return to using the stairs for the day. We also purchased shoe covers from Home Depot and kept a basket at the top and bottom of the stairs. Over the course of the project, every single member of my family knew to wear these footies before using the stairs and to deposit the footies in either basket once they reached the top or the bottom of the stairs.

The day that we actually stained the stairs was the only day that the stairs were off-limits. We had everyone get ready in the morning and bring everything they needed downstairs for the day. Once the last layer was dry, everyone could return upstairs, but, we tried to keep the stair usage to a minimum until the layers of protection had been added, which brings me to the next step.

Step 6: Final Finish

The next step was to finish the stairs with several layers of protection over the course of three days. For the final finish, we used Rust-Oleum Parks Pro Finisher, water-based polyurethane for floors.

Each morning I applied a layer and allowed it to dry all day. After lunch, everyone was permitted to use the stairs as long as they had on the shoe coverings I previously mentioned. We repeated this process for three days in a row.

Note: If you read below, there were holes in the bottom four or five treads from where the old posts were removed. During the staining process, I was able to camouflage the wood plugs while using chalk paint. If you look closely you can still see where the old posts were removed, however, it is not readily noticeable.

Building the Railing

Tools you need to make a modern horizontal railing

• Miter saw
• Drill
• Tape Measure
• Level
• Rotary sander or sand block

Materials you need to make a modern horizontal railing

• Lumber (select pine is great for a painted railing, while red or white oak is great for a stained railing)
• Wood glue
• Construction screws
• Wood filler (or plastic wood)

Scroll to the bottom for quick instructions.

Step 7: Remove the balusters

So to begin, I went straight into cutting off the balusters. I used a jigsaw, but ideally, you should use a Sawzall. You can cut right through the middle and simply pull them out with little to no effort. It may require you to wiggle them back and forth a little but eventually, you will loosen up whatever is holding them, which is typically some type of glue. When you cut through the middle you are going to be left with an upper and a lower half. Both of these will come out the way I described earlier, but I would use caution with the bottom half that’s connected to the tread.

Step 8: Plug The Holes

So after you have removed the balusters I am sure you noticed several ugly holes in your tread. No worries. In step 1 I told you to use caution when you were removing the bottom halves, the reason being is when you’re going to be using the lower halves to plug those holes up. You simply cut off the end that sat in the hole about a 1/4 inch higher than the hole. Using wood glue, apply it to the inside diameter of the hole and the outside diameter of the plug. Insert the plug. Let it dry. Use wood fillers to build up around the gaps (if there are any) then sand it down flush with the stairs

Step 9: Removing the handrail

If you’ve made it here you’re all in now there’s no turning back. You are staring at two Newels and a handrail. This is probably the simplest step there is.

To remove the handrail cut in two places, about six inches from the upper Newel and six inches from the lower Newel. Cut it straight through. Word of advice, start your cut from the top and not the bottom. If you start at the bottom and get about 3/4‘s of the way through the weight of the handrail is going to pinch your blade and stop it. You don’t want that to happen. Once you make your cuts the handrail will just fall right out. Be sure to have someone there to catch it or have something supporting it when you make your last cut to ensure that you don’t end up hurting yourself or damaging something by having the handrail fall uncontrolled.

Step 10: Remove old Newels.

Routinely the newels are held in by either nails or screws. In my case, they were held in by nails. What you first want to do is use some type of flat edge tool to separate the paint on the wall and the paint on your wood post and put some separation between the wall and the newel. I used a pretty big flat edge screwdriver and a crowbar, don’t judge me. What I should have used were my wedges. You want to take the wedges point side and put that right where the wall and the newel meet, making sure to have the flat part of the wedge riding on the wall. Get yourself a small hammer and begin tapping on the wedge. This should create the space needed and not cause any damaged to the wall.

Once you have created the space, you should be able to see the nails that were holding it in. You need to remove those nails. A simple way to get to the head of the nail where you can simply use the hammer to remove them is by pushing the wood back to the wall. The nails are attached to the wall so your wood is going to slide on the nails without them budging. Once the heads of the nails are exposed remove the nail. You can repeat the same process for the lower newel, but to be honest with you once I pushed it, the whole newel unfastened with the nails still in them. Regardless of how you do it make sure to exercise safety.

Alright now there is nothing there and it’s time to install your new staircase handrail. Now, you can go with a premade set, and have the same exact one as everyone else, or…. You can make your own. Here’s how I made mine.

Step 11: Install new post

To install the post I simply screwed them into the post in the wall using 6” wood screws. Be sure to drill a pilot hole through the wood hole first as a stress relief otherwise you end up cracking your wood. Once you drill the pilot holes, place your newel, in my case the 4x4 hardwood, square against the wall for the upper newel and the riser for the lower Newel. Once square you can then screw in your screws. Make sure to hold it firm while screwing and ensure that the screws are going in straight and not at an angle.

Step 12: Install new railings and horizontal balusters

Ok, this is where we are going to separate luck and skill. Get your level and measuring tape out it's time to get to business. Now that you have your both newels tightly secured and in place, you need to take a measurement between them at the angle and length you’re going to be cutting and installing them at. But first, you need to determine how many you’re going to install and what sizes you’re going to install. I bought four 2x4’s and three 2x1’s but once I got them back to the house I saw that it wasn’t going to be feasible to put all of those up there, so I decided to go with two of each.

I cut the pieces I was going to use down to a reasonable size and then I held it in place while my wife marked where I needed to cut and where I needed to install. After the wood was marked and I had my install points set, I made all my cuts to the wood. I then pre-drilled pilot holes into the wood at the angle I was going to be screwing in my screws. I called my boys down to help this time around and had them hold the boards in place while I attached them with four wood screws.

Bonus: Filling in the gaps

So now you’re looking in amazement at the job you just did patting yourself on the back, telling everyone in the house to come and look, maybe even giving it a couple of tugs to check the sturdiness. During your inspections, you see all of the screws and start to thinking, “Man this is going to be ugly if I just paint straight over the top of them.” I did the same thing. So, to cover those screw heads, go and get the wood filler you had earlier and start filling. Once in and dried, which usually takes 24 hours for a completely dry, you can sand it all down to give it the clean and flush look you’re going for.

Quick Instructions For a Modern Coastal Horizontal Railing

1. Install your posts at the top and bottom of your stairs. For this railing, we used a 4 x 4 post and attached the upper to the wall and stringer, and lower to the floor and stringer with wood screws. Make sure to hold a level tight on all sides prior to fully driving in screws.

2. Once your posts are installed and sturdy, measure the total span of your railing to determine the length of the horizontal balusters, or rails, whatever you prefer to call them. Traditional balusters are vertical and installed every 6 inches, but this modern horizontal railing is a different design.

3. Once you have your measurement, cut the horizontal boards. If your posts are level you’re looking at a 45-degree cut.

4. To install the horizontal balusters, pre-drill holes on the tops and bottoms of the horizontal boards near the ends with a 3/16” drill bit. This will avoid splitting the wood when you fasten with your construction screws.

5. Attach your bottom board first, followed by the middle and top. I recommend spacing the boards by 3” to 5”.

6. Once everything is installed and fastened tight, it’s time to fill all holes with wood filler or plastic wood. Allow drying as recommended on the product packaging prior to sanding smooth. A good rule of thumb is a day unless you’re in a rush to finish. Also, make sure the filler you choose is painted or stainable.

7. Finally, it is time to finish with paint or stain.

The Finished Product

Raquel Phillips is a writer, digital creator, CPT, certified group fitness instructor, and entrepreneur. She is a wife and mother of 6 amazing children. She resides in Virginia Beach, VA.

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